You believe in the surfing community and our collective power. You take care of your toxic foam-resin surfboards, and your eyes get watery when you see more environmentally friendly alternatives.Ĥ. After all, you need that wetsuit to conserve heat you need those booties to save you from urchins, rocks, and frostbite in some locations. The second step is realizing that this is not surfing’s fault, but is a problem due to our current capitalized, globalized world (dis)order. You know that surfing is not entirely about consumerism.Īs much as I love the way my Rip Curl ocean-search tidal watch matches my O’Neill fast dry, water repellant board shorts, I acknowledge the fact that they were probably made in some outsourced cheap-labour factory somewhere in Asia. It’s about gracefully merging with the energy of a wave. Genuine surfing isn’t about winning heats, scoring perfect 10’s and slashing, snapping and cutting at the waves.
I admire the stories of Eddie Aikau, and I get mesmerized watching Laird Hamilton foilboarding. But I honestly prefer watching a 68-year-old riding a 9’5 green longboard on a solid 8-foot Conejo day. You see the value of surfing as a form of art that goes beyond sport.ĭon’t get mad at me Kelly, you know I admire you (I have a poster of you on my wall) and enjoy watching you and your WCT buddies rip. You confess your sins during that bad wipeout, and you feel the blessing of a force superior to you while you’re inside the energetic vortex of a barrel.Ģ. Now, don’t get me wrong, but people go to church at least once a week, right? No matter how busy you are during the week, you still choose to get baptized by the cold water as you paddle out. You go surfing at least once a week, even on Sundays. But if you can say yes to six or more of the following statements, consider the possibility that you might be an enlightened surf-guru who lives by the grace of the great mother, the ocean.ġ.
You might not think of yourself as a hippie, new age, spiritual, soul surfer kinda guy or girl.
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